![]() While you are pulling the shaft, send out your props to be checked for accuracy and balance. Start the driveline checking process with the shaft because even a minor issue with the shaft can cause noise and vibration problems and if you try to fix those by adjusting engine mounts, you will spend a fair bit of money without fixing your vibration problem. An amateur with a pry bar can do real damage. This is not a simple DYI project because separating the coupler and sliding it out often requires special tools. It slides out of the stuffing box and through the cutlass bearing in the strut before it’s free. Dropping the shaft requires the coupler between the transmission and the stuffing box to be undone and often the rudder and stock have to be removed to slide the shaft out. Also, the shaft itself is a large and heavy piece that has to be checked when it is outside the boat. A good shaft can be trued up, but one that has been run bent or out of alignment for several seasons, can be ready to snap from fatigue.Įven a very small amount of damage can start a chain reaction of problems. Start the process by having your marine engineer verify that the shaft is straight and has no visible wear spots. You really don’t want to suffer that broken shaft. Plus, it will be a touch more economical and a lot longer lived. When things are all on spec, the boat will be at its smoothest and quietest. ![]() It comes down to accurate alignment in the drive train. Constant vibration, heat and noise may be dampening your fun every time the boat is run. ![]() You don’t need a broken drive shaft to spoil your day. On recreational boats that get only weekend and occasional vacation trip use, total hours of operation are often low and inboard driveline elements are sufficiently simple and robust that they can last for years without failure…but there is always wear. Of course, there is always a shaft to which the propeller is attached. Well, if she were here, she’d be giving you some important advice! Both sailing boats and powerboats with inboard engines generally have rubber in the engine mounts, packing material in the stuffing box and a cutlass bearing in the propeller strut.
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